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An Internet search turns up actual Sunset Grills or Sunset Grilles all over the United States, in Tennessee, North Carolina, Utah, Virginia, Florida, Hawaii, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania.

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"It's a fun place to work," one of the waitresses confessed to me, "because the owners are very hands-on and care about details." I know that's true because on all of my visits, I saw one or both of the owners working really hustling which is an increasingly rare sight in today's restaurant scene. I kept the 50th-state theme going with a bowl of Volcanic pasta: fettuccine in a "beach fire sauce" (kind of Alfredo meets the cayenne shaker) that I liked a lot more than I thought I would.

In fact, when I returned with Franklin and Richard on a Sunday night, the whole staff was hopping. "You're clearly losing your mind," said Franklin, who stuck to a more traditional fettuccine in Alfredo sauce.

Desserts here are as American as an excellent apple crisp (served la mode) and a respectable Key lime pie that actually looks and tastes like the silky cream pie you would find in the Florida Keys.

Those who prefer something more exotic can order a rum, Midori and pineapple juice cocktail called a Witchy Woman. From the Capital Grille official website at want The Capital Grille to be your place. Then we match the food with out-of-this-world service and a comfortable, relaxed ambiance thats a world away from the routine.

Perhaps a hot pepper or two might have helped the crummy crab cakes, which were doughy and soggy.

"A waste of perfectly good lump crab," Carol Ann sniffed, pushing the plate away. Now, Carol Ann is a snob about many things but not food.

took their establishment's name from the Don Henley song (which doesn't have a damn thing to do with food).

Henley does invite his listeners to "watch the working girls go by" a visual that's unimaginable at 145th Street and Metcalf unless the working girl is a crisply dressed corporate executive driving her Lexus to the Stein Mart around the corner.

That didn't stop her from sending back her thick slab of grilled tuna steak, topped with a jalapeo-citrus salsa, twice because it was too pink in the center.

The staff was accommodating, but she never warmed up to the meal. I made a much wiser choice with the Baja shrimp tacos: soft flour tortillas stuffed with garlic-sauted shrimp, tomatoes, onions, peppers and, oddly enough, Parmesan cheese.

"There's kind of a 1970s feel to this restaurant." Her words rang particularly true when I opened the menu and saw some interesting similarities between it and the Houlihan's menu from that bygone era.

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